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Frequently Asked Questions

Measure and Pricing

Questions

Yes!

Every once in awhile someone will send me a quilt to work on that also sends backing and batting that are the same size as the quilt top.

No no no no – please don’t do this – I need the extra on the ends to attach to the canvas leaders on the machine and to give room for the quilting machine to maneuver and I need the extra on the sides to attach clamps to the backing to keep good tension to prevent pleats being sewn into it, and also so the machine can maneuver around.

If I have to add fabric to the sides or top/bottom areas to be able to attach it to the machine I will charge extra – and I won’t guarantee that I can keep the top centered on the backing.

To measure your quilt top:

There is no standard size for quilts, that is why it is so important to get accurate measurements for an estimate.

Measure thru the middle of the quilt top, both length and width – and it is a good idea to measure across the edges also, this lets you know if it is the same size or if there is a discrepancy in size.

To estimate the square inches,

multiply the length times the width of the quilt to arrive at the square inch for your quilt top.

Example 1 – Twin size:

This quit measures 68″ wide by 90″ long

Width 68 multiplied by length 90 – 68×90=6120 square inches

Example 2 – King size

This quilt measures 110″ wide by 110″ long

Width 110 multiplied by length 110 – 110×110=12,100 square inches

We will use this square inches to figure how much it will cost to quilt your quilt top.

Use the square inch calculated in the steps above to get the quilting price.

Don’t forget there are no standard sizes for quilts, that is why it is so important to get accurate measurements for an estimate.

Example 1 – Twin size quilted with a pantograph pattern

68″ x 90″ = 6120 square inches X .025 = $153.00

Example 2 – King size quilted with a pantograph pattern

110″ x 110″ = 12,100 square inches total X .025 = $302.50

Prices may vary depending on the denseness of the quilting and design elements. You can use the request an estimate form to get a quick estimate without submitting – just go HERE.

Other charges may apply – such as backing fabric and batting supplied by me, pressing, binding charges. I can help you decide on a quilting pattern and give you a written estimate for your finished quilt.

There is a minimum charge of at least $40 per quilt.

Check out my quilt measurement chart below.*

As you can see sizes vary greatly for each category, so for a Full or Double quilt it could vary by $20 or more in price. *

Description

Size

Pantograph Price

Baby

36×36 to 52×52

$50 *

Crib

30×46 to 36×50

$50*

Cot

58×90 to 72×108

$130.50 to 194.40 *

Bunk

66×89 to 74×103

$146.85 to 190.55 *

Wheel Chair/Lap

38×47

$50 *

Lap

52×52 to 68×78

$67.60 to 132.60 *

Twin

64×86 to 72×96

$137.60 to 172.80 *

Double

70×86 to 88×96

$150.50 to 211.20 *

Queen

88×94 to 99×108

$206.80 to 267.30 *

Queen Waterbed

76×104

$197.60 *

King

94×94 to 108×108

$220.90 to 291.60 *

California Kin

100×98 to 114×117

$245.00 to 333.45 *

King Waterbed

88×94

$206.80 *

*Prices listed are a general estimate and should not be construed as the actual cost of quilting your individual quilts. Prices listed do not include batting, backing, binding or any other services that you may request.

**I reserve the right to change prices without notice.

Get your FREE quilt estimate HERE.

No obligation free quilt estimate is just a click away.

Billing And Shipping

Questions

I accept cash, PayPal and VISA/Mastercard. No personal checks please.

Great question, I obviously accept local quilts to be dropped off to my home where I quilt from. I also will meet at local quilt guilds and sewing groups with prior arrangements.

If you don’t live near me then you can ship your quilt top, batting, and backing to me at my DeMotte, Indiana home. Someone is always here and the delivery people are great to make sure your packages are delivered to us.

Please don’t deliver or ship your quilts to me without making prior arrangements. 

I return your quilt once payment is made in full. If you can’t pay in full then other arrangements can be made at my discretion. 

Please don’t deliver your quilt to be quilted unless you can pay in full, I offer a service just like any other service and expect payment when services are completed.

Most often I will request a deposit when you deliver or ship your quilt. I will let you know what that is when we discuss your quilt and arrange for delivery or shipment.

Balance is expected within 30 days of notification that your quilt is ready for shipping or pickup. I won’t return the quilt till payment in full.

I will email you my address when we make quilting arrangements.

How To

Questions

Borders do tend to grow and get very friendly (wave at you) if not done correctly.

The wrong way:

This is how not to put a border on your quilt. Cut your border longer than what you need it and just start sewing from one end to the other and cut off the extra when you get done. This doesn’t work well because the quilt top will tend to stretch on the edges and it will make the border bigger than the middle – especially if you have several borders on the outside of the quilt. Please don’t do it this way – I have had to take pleats and tucks in borders and that isn’t always a good solution.

The Correct way:

This is the correct way to add borders on your quilt. This is assuming that you are going to put the side borders on first then top and bottom borders.

Step 1: Measure your quilt top to bottom thru the middle (sometimes it is a good idea to measure a couple of different areas and average the measurement).

Step 2: Cut the side borders to this measurement and divide it into 4th and mark with pins, also mark the quilt top in 4th with pins.

Step 3: Place the border face down on the quilt matching edges and pins – you may need to ease a little or stretch a little but shouldn’t have to do too much if you were careful with your piecing.

Step 4: Sew seam and press toward border.

Step 5: Measure your quilt as you did above only side to side.

Step 6: Cut the top and bottom borders and follow the above steps to mark and attach them to the quilt top.

This will give you a very nice square, flat border.

Binding isn’t too hard to do.

Just takes practice and patience and time.

Read How Easily You Can ​Bind Your Quilts blog post that I wrote.

Unless you buy wide fabric specifically made for quilt backs you probably will need to piece your backing if you quilt is very large.

Read my Ultimate Guide to Pieced Backings.

There are a lot of things you can do before sending your quilt to the longarm quilter to ensure you get the best results.

Make sure you press your seams very well. Both in the top and backing.

Trim all loose threads on your quilt. Reinforce weak seams in your quilt top.

Stay stitch around the outside of your quilt top. This helps prevent it from stretching and also prevents seams from popping open on the edges if you didn’t backstitch.

Make sure your backing and batting are at least 4 inches larger on all sides than your quilt top, more if you aren’t positive the backing is going to be square enough to load on the frame.

If your quilt is mostly dark then use dark batting, I can order some if you need me to. This ensures you don’t have to worry about any white batting poking thru needle holes.

Yes this works very well.

I have done this for years, I do try to use all the same type/brand/weight of batting when I do this. 

You can either use your sewing machine and a large zig-zag or you can buy the fusible tape made for this purpose.

Make sure the edges you are going to join are straight and butt them together edge to edge and zig-zag or use the fusible tape to hold them together.

Works great and is a great use for those remnants of batting.

Misc.

Questions

Yes I can bind your quilt for you.

I offer several options for binding your quilts.

I can attach it to the front using the longarm, mitering the ends together and corners. This gets it ready for you to hand stitch it down to the back.

I can sew it to the front and the back by machine, giving you a completed quilt.

I can also sew it to the front by machine and to the back by hand.

I can also prepare your binding from fabric that you furnish. Either straight or bias with mitered seams connecting the strips of fabric.

Full prices are on my services page.

Turn around time is anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks. Usually 4 or less. 

No I don’t have a waiting list.

I quilt as they come in the door, first in first out. If you know you are going to have a quilt done at a specific time we can discuss how you want it quilted and that will save time when you do get it done and to me.

No my quilting is all hand guided.

That means I physically control and guide the movement of my longarm quilting machine, creating the quilting design.

I offer free-motion edge 2 edge quilting – I have a certain design in mind and I quilt free hand from one edge to the next then roll the quilt and keep on till I am done. This type of quilting will make your quilt totally unique. No specific pattern is followed, just an idea of a design all over the quilt.

I also offer pantograph quilting – this is an edge to edge design that is also done free hand but I follow a paper design with the laser light on my machine. As I follow the design with the light I am moving the longarm sewing head as it sews on the quilt. It is the same design across the quilt then row after row till I get to the bottom of the quilt.

I also do custom quilting free hand and using rulers to guide the stitching. 

Fill out a FREE request form and send it to me and I will contact you to schedule a time to meet or so you can ship it to me. 

I can’t wait to get to work for you.

Ready to have Debra quilt for you?

Free estimate . No registration needed. 

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